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Climbing Everest With a Fractured Fibula, One Step at a Time

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Elia Saikaly climbing Mt. Everest


This article on climbing Mt. Everest is an installment of the Men’s Journal Everyday Warrior series, which features advice, key interviews, and tips for living a life of consistent impact, continuous growth, and continual learning. 

Editor’s Note: We do not condone or recommend performing high-risk adventures while injured.

Sometimes life hits us when we least expect it. Everything is in order, everything seems to be going just fine, then BAM. We take a hit. Overwhelmed and paralyzed with fear, it’s easy to be crippled by inaction. But what if there was a more effective way to respond? I was recently on assignment at Mt. Everest, where my job was to document an expedition to the top of the world.

At the ripe age of 43, I’m realistic about the fact I don’t heal like I did in my twenties. Expeditions take a toll on your body. Extreme altitude kicks your butt, as does hauling a heavy pack across dangerous terrain while slinging a camera uphill. To maximize my performance, I build in a number of rest days in Kathmandu to adjust to the major time zone difference from my home in Canada (ahead 9 hours 45 minutes). The recipe for success is simple: Show up rested and fit, remain healthy (body, mind, and emotion), manage your stress, have a solid plan, remain humble, make good decisions, and you’re off on the right foot.

Off on the wrong foot

While walking back to my hotel through the narrow alleys of Kathmandu, I was side-swiped by a motorcycle. It felt like someone smashed my fibula, the bone just below the knee, with a hammer. I limped back to my hotel. By the time I reached the stairwell leading to my room, I knew something wasn’t right.

After FaceTiming my physiotherapist and going through the standard RICE protocol (rest, ice, compression, elevation), I knew I needed help. Bailing on the expedition was not only going to cost my client a lot of money, it was going to seriously disappoint my team and let everyone down. That was not an option.

Elia Saikaly

 

An x-ray at the clinic revealed no injuries. I insisted something was not right so the orthopedic surgeon recommended an MRI. Three hundred dollars later, the results revealed a fracture in the head of my fibula. I returned to the Nepali surgeon with the results and after hearing him say, “Your expedition is over,” I politely looked him in the eye and said, “Sir, I’ve spoken to my team and they’ve explained to me that it’s a non-weight bearing bone. Plus, I’ve been to the summit of Everest four times. Given it’s fractured just the right way, why don’t we focus on a solution rather than the problem?” He looked at me, incredulous, but nodded.

By this time, the lead guide of the expedition arrived and I leveled with him, saying, “Don’t panic, but I was hit by a motorcycle and have a fractured fibula. I can manage the situation.”

Kenton Cool, a British climber and friend, aiming for his sixteenth summit of Mt. Everest, replied, “I trust you.”

Understanding the risks

I reassured him that if I could get to basecamp without issue, I could climb to the top of Everest. I informed my clients and assured them they had nothing to worry about. While I knew the risks, I also knew the terrain extremely well. I was more concerned about the trek to Everest than I was the climb. The likelihood of injuring myself on the rocky terrain in the lowlands outweighed the more predictable ice slopes on Mt. Everest. After 10 expeditions, I know the classic South Side route in Nepal like the back of my hand.

My plan was to rely heavily on my Nepalese camera support crew and my assistant, Pasang Kaji Sherpa. I kept my pack light and had no issue handing over my camera to my local film crew to conserve energy. They understood the situation and were happy to support me. I also relied on a cocktail of anti-inflammatories, two knee braces, and painkillers. Should my body truly say no, I was prepared to throw in the towel. I didn’t want to put my life at risk nor the life of anyone else.

Making the climb

I made my way from village to village and trekked while filming from the base to the top of the world. Cautiously, I did my job while navigating the terrain. Trekking 900 vertical meters to a viewpoint outside the village of Pheriche gave me the confidence that I made the right decisions. I listened to my body closely, made adjustments when necessary, and took it one step at a time.

By the time I reached basecamp at 17,500 feet above sea level, I began to experience classic symptoms of acute mountain sickness. Minor headaches and poor quality of sleep is common while adjusting to altitude. The more concerning issue for me was the cocktail of anti-inflammatories and pain killers wreaking havoc on my stomach. They were causing indigestion and severe stomach cramps. I decided to pivot in response to the discomfort and eliminated the meds from the plan. The rest of the journey was executed with a knee brace and will power.

I was lucky that the bone fractured perfectly. Had it been my knee, this expedition and assignment would have been over. The mountains have taught me that how we respond determines our outcome. It’s the same in life. When things go wrong:

  • Remain calm
  • Assess the situation
  • Don’t be afraid to ask for help
  • Take control of the situation
  • Formulate a plan
  • Calculate the risks
  • Be transparent with your team
  • Be responsible and honest while carrying out the plan
  • Don’t be afraid to admit defeat

I knew I was riding a thin line, but I also knew my craft and the mountain extremely well and trusted my experience. I was realistic and ready to call it quits long before exposing myself to dangerous terrain. Everest typically takes 6 to 7 weeks to summit due to the long acclimatization process. Our team summited in 4 weeks as planned and I filmed the journey with my right-hand man, Pasang Kaji Sherpa.  I have an incredible local team to thank for supporting me every step of the way.

Life throws curve balls at us and it’s important to avoid the fear-paralysis when it happens and be prepared to respond. Lean into your experience and focus on the solution, not the problem. There is always a way through.

Elia Saikaly is an award-winning adventure filmmaker based in Ottawa, Canada. He has participated in over 25 world-class expeditions, including ten to Mt. Everest. He is the only Canadian to summit the world’s tallest mountain five times. In 2021, he reached the summit of K2, the 2nd tallest mountain on Earth.


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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