Fitness
Elevate Your Footwear Game with Le Majordome’s Bespoke Shoes
Published
3 years agoon
By
Terry Power
The concept of customizing casual footwear might seem commonplace nowadays—even sneaker juggernauts like Nike and Adidas allow near-full personalization of their most iconic styles. But what if you want to create a pair of dress shoes or boots from the ground up? A talented cobbler could tackle light cosmetic modifications, like alterations to the outsoles, to those close-to-perfect shoes you already own. But if you’re picky about the toe shape or insole, or want a specific combination of materials, you might find yourself out of luck (or shelling out thousands of dollars). Until now: Meet Le Majordome, a Swiss luxury shoemaker that has been producing high-quality custom footwear in Europe since 2012.
Founded by former architect Gian-Luca Cavigelli as a temporary shop in Zurich, Le Majordome soon exploded into a thriving business with three boutiques in Switzerland and an online store. In November 2021, Le Majordome opened a flagship location in New York City along with a U.S. website, so men on the other side of the Atlantic now have access to the brand’s selection of hand-lasted custom and ready-to-wear footwear.
But what is it that makes Le Majordome’s approach to custom shoes so novel? Soon after the brand flung open the doors to its newest boutique, I zipped up to Midtown Manhattan to find out for myself.
Not Your Average Shoe Store
Even before stepping inside Le Majordome, it was clear that this shopping experience would be very different from the sea of high-end menswear labels found along Madison Avenue. Located kitty-corner from the towering spires of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the nondescript storefront looked more like an artisan’s atelier or photo studio than a footwear boutique. Inside, the compact space was illuminated by floodlights and studio lamps and its whitewashed walls were left bare, save for a handful of shelves and a row of wooden shoe lasts hanging behind the back counter.
The minimal styling was effective—right away my eyes darted to the diverse array of shoes displayed atop stacks of shoeboxes: plain-toe Derbies, cap-toe Oxfords, Chelseas, penny loafers. Even the trim on each shoe, from the type of leather to the hardware and the colors of the stitching, was distinct. Despite the variety, there was a clear common thread: Each shoe was elegant and expertly crafted, combining classic silhouettes with modern, playful accents.
These shoes were just the ready-to-wear options, and although you can buy them as-is, they’re also meant to inspire customers to mix and match features for their own made-to-order pair. When I walked in, I was immediately paralyzed by indecision on where to begin. Luckily, Le Majordome co-owner and president (and childhood friend of Cavigelli) Daniel Bucheli was there to help.
Custom Shoes, Simplified
Like Le Majordome’s founder, Bucheli also made a career pivot when he joined the brand in 2016. After earning a doctorate degree in theoretical physics, Bucheli decided he preferred a job centered on tangible products, as well as one that offered more human interaction. Guiding his fellow men through the process of crafting their own shoes turned out to be the way to go. At Le Majordome, there’s no catalog to sift through. Rather, every experience begins with an open dialogue: Which design is the customer drawn to? Are there any specific requirements, in fit or function, that need to be considered?
According to Bucheli, the majority of custom shoemakers tend to focus solely on reinterpretations of heritage styles. And while most fashion labels produce footwear that may be more design-forward, they often end up being mediocre in quality.
“What makes us different as a brand is that we find ourselves at the intersection of both,” he told Men’s Journal. “Our goal is to create future classics—shoes that are well-made and inspired by traditional craftsmanship, yet have an updated, modern look to them. Each year we come out with around six new styles, and are always trying to fine-tune our aesthetic identity.”
Le Majordome also stands out because of the way the brand has streamlined the production process. The company partners with a renowned, century-old shoe factory in southeast Spain for all their orders. Working with just one factory saves the customer months in turnaround time and thousands of dollars compared to other shoemakers that offer made-to-measure fittings, such as Aubercy in Paris and George Cleverley in London.
“Our concept is simplified to reduce time and expenses in a way to make it appealing to a broader audience,” Bucheli said.
Creating Custom Shoes
I arrived at Le Majordome with a mission: Fill the empty space in my wardrobe reserved for a killer pair of boots. I spent a solid 30 minutes examining the dozen or more ready-to-wear options on display, with Bucheli providing the guardrails I needed to mentally sketch my own pair. Le Majordome’s hands-on approach encourages feeling the different materials and seeing the potential add-ons in person.
But first I needed to nail down my preferred style. Did I want a Derby boot, jodhpur, or an urban hiking boot? I realized I was longing for the latter, but could it come with a square toe?
“Of course,” Bucheli said. “And with this style, I recommend a solid wooden sole instead of the chunky rubber one. What about the uppers: leather or suede? And in what color?”
My eyes were drawn to a dark brown leather chukka across the room.
“I love that material, but can we add in the brass eyelets on that pair?” I ask while pointing to an alpine-inspired galosh boot.
“Yes we can.”
And just like that, my personalized boots were coming to life.
Next, Bucheli had to ensure that the fit would also be unique. I slipped off my socks and stood on a box equipped with a scanner that mapped the topography of my feet. From there, the measurements would be cross-referenced with a large library of prefabricated lasts in various lengths and widths to determine the perfect fit. My personal profile would be archived in Le Majordome’s database, available for whenever I’d like to build another pair in the future.
As for shoe possibilities, Le Majordome’s library includes around 60 models, three toe shapes, and 15 sole constructions, plus nearly 100 different materials to choose from: suede, distressed leathers, marled wool, and more. Bucheli estimates about 10 weeks from design to delivery, which he says is about half the time quoted by other custom shoe shops.
Despite these innovations, Bucheli doesn’t think bespoke footwear will overtake ready-to-wear options anytime soon.
“Both from a customer and production perspective, ready-to-wear just feels easier,” he explained. “Le Majordome sees custom footwear as a great alternative for those who want something more unique, or who already have envisioned the shoe they want.”
Bespoke shoes are great for people who want to depart from the usual lineup of classics, or give them a unique spin—adding bold colors or interesting textures, for example.
“Since custom shoes are a way of expressing yourself visually, we want to make sure we can give each customer the best vocabulary possible.”
Want to get your own pair? Head over to the Le Majordome website to browse ready-to-wear styles or make an in-store appointment.
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There’s no doubt when the weather turns colder as we settle into winter, stouts take center stage. And while we enjoy all its iterations: standard stout, imperial stout, and robust barrel-aged stouts, we think this malty, chocolate-filled beer’s close cousin deserves a little respect as well. Of course, we’re talking about the oft-overlooked porter. And the best porters, oh buddy, they’ll have you rethinking your seasonal bevvie of choice.
For those uninitiated, the porter style had its genesis in England like many other iconic beer styles. It first appeared in the 1700s and is (you guessed it) named after porters—individuals tasked with transporting luggage.
A confusing origin story
“Stout is the direct descendant of porter. In the 1700s, it was common to use the word ‘stout’ to refer to a bolder, higher-alcohol version of any beer style, much in the same way we use the word ‘imperial’ today,” says Zach Fowle, advanced cicerone and head of marketing for Arizona Wilderness Brewing Co. in Phoenix, AZ. “Porter was the most popular beer of the day, and over time, “stout porter” became a popular variant. But by the late 1800s, demand for regular porters evaporated, and stout porter shortened simply to stout.”
But more has changed between the 1800s and today than just our penchant for wearing top hats. “Today, most brewers seem to market beers as either stout or porter based on vibes, rather than on any notable stylistic differences,” he says.
Specifically, porters are known for their dark, almost pitch-black color and rich, sweet flavor profile. If you were to drink a porter and a stout side by side, you might even have difficulty discerning the differences between the two.
Stout versus porter is an enduring topic of discussion in the brewing industry. “While there’s no debating the porter came first—and stout used to be called stout porter, so it was a stronger version of a porter—the lines have become very blurred over the years,” says Rob Lightner, co-founder of East Brother Brewing in Richmond, CA.
“I would venture that even among professionals, a blind taste test would often yield inconclusive results,” says Lightner.
The difference between porters and stouts
Porters tend to be on the milder, more chocolatey end of the spectrum, Lightner says, whereas stouts are typically a little stronger and more roasty. Of course, this isn’t a hard and fast rule
Fowle agrees, “Porters tend to be fruitier, sweeter, and less bitter than stouts, with cocoa and caramel flavors in balance with dark malt bitterness. And stouts are usually hoppier, drier, maltier, and more coffee-forward—and may even have a touch of acidity.”
Whether or not they fit neatly into boxes, one thing’s for sure: both make for incredible cold-weather brews.
“As the nights grow longer, drinking a light, summery beer just doesn’t seem right,” says Fowle. “Porter is the perfect style for the transition to winter: warming and toasty yet not too heavy, with flavors of coffee, chocolate, and pie crust that correspond with autumn weather and holidays.”
It’s the perfect time to broaden your repretoire. Sweet, robust, warming, and well-suited to the season, here are the best porters to drink now.
1. Deschutes Black Butte Porter
There are few porters more well-respected than Deschutes’ iconic Black Butte Porter. It’s brewed with Cascade and Tettnang hops as well as 2-row, Chocolate, Crystal, and Carapils malts as well as wheat. This 5.5% ABV year-round offering is great for cold-weather drinking because of its mix of roasted malts, coffee, and chocolate. It’s a robust, subtly sweet beer perfect for imbibing on a crisp fall night.
[$10.99 for a six-pack; deschutesbrewery.com]
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Fitness
Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength
Published
2 years agoon
9 November 2022By
Terry Power
The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.
“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.
If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.
Directions
Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.
Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength
Circuit 1
A. Barbell Back Squat
Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps
B. Renegade Row
Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side
Circuit 2
A. Dumbbell Bentover Row
Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps
B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised
Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps
Circuit 3
A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side
B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side
Circuit 4
A. Pullup
Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps
B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps
Circuit 5
A. Dumbbell Pushup
Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps
B. Biceps Curl
Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps
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Fitness
The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout
Published
2 years agoon
9 November 2022By
Terry Power
If you haven’t picked up a jump rope since elementary school, you’re missing out on a fantastic cardio workout. Not only will you burn a ton of calories in a short amount of time—200 to 300 calories in 15 minutes—but jump ropes can also improve your coordination and agility. Better yet, jumping rope doesn’t require much space, so it’s easy to do at home, and it’s often more mentally stimulating than jogging or swimming.
Choosing a Jump Rope
When deciding which jump rope is best for you, it’s important to determine what your goals are. While lightweight speed ropes are popular for cardio-focused training, weighted or drag ropes will be best for those focused on strength training.
No matter what your training goals are, we’ve got you covered with this roundup of 10 jump ropes from top brands including Crossrope, TRX, Rogue, and more.
The Best Jump Ropes of 2022
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