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Esmé Brings Old-School Charm and Panache to South Beach

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The hospitality industry can feel trite as a frequent jetsetter. Chain hotels’ corporate gyms, sprawling lobbies, and impersonal design often give the perception of Groundhog Day, distilling your experience into something lackluster. Even if you don’t travel often, there’s a world to be gained by booking a boutique hotel. Case in point, Miami might be your destination, but a stay at Esmé, a Preferred Hotels & Resorts property, transports you beyond. It delivers travelers to a bygone era.

You might overlook the property amid diners eating al fresco on Española Way, but when you pass through the threshold into the 145-room boutique hotel, it feels as though you’re slinking through the best of the Mediterranean over the decades. It’s not distinctly Spanish or French, but the sentiment is unmistakable as you meander through white-washed Spanish-style paseos and Art Deco-designed rooms that imbue France’s Années folles (“the crazy times” of the ’20s).

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White-washed walls with tables and chairs set up in alleyway
Stroll down Spanish-style paseos to enjoy tapas from Bar Pintxo. Jen Castro

In the 1930s, what’s now the hotel’s main building served as Al Capone’s underground gambling syndicate. Later, actor and bandleader Desi Arnaz (I Love Lucy) was known to frequent the spot and get a little rowdy. Jessica Schuster Design was tasked with reinventing what was formerly a youth hostel known as The Clay Hotel into what you see here. The renovation took five years and a whopping $40 million, drawing inspiration from the energy of hustlers, vagabonds, icons, and creators of all crafts,

A tribute to the past with an eye on the future

Getting here from Miami International Airport (MIA) is a breeze; it’s just a little over 10.5 miles away—a 20- to 25-minute drive.

Esmé’s location puts you right in the middle of South Beach, a paragon of entertainment. You’re a five-minute walk to Miami Beach, a quick stroll to Lincoln Road for shopping, and in the midst of the Art Deco historic district—fitting as Esmé’s stomping grounds used to be an artists’ colony coined “Historic Spanish Village.” Nights out often run into mornings for tourists and locals, so if you’re seeking a quiet respite and seclusion, North Beach might be the better alternative.

While it’s not a sprawling compound, you’re definitely not confined. The property comprises Esmé Village, home to 145 rooms and suites; a roof-top bar and pool with sun loungers; and five on-site bars and restaurants: El Salón, Bar Pintxo, The Drexel, Tropezón, and The Roof. Across the street, you’ll find Casa Matanza with 42 additional bedrooms and suites. Let’s start with your accommodations.

Where to Stay

Esmé Village Bedroom
Rose and emerald are two recurring color themes throughout Esmé’s Village Bedrooms. Courtesy Image

Esmé Village Rooms & Suites

Esmé Village is airy and luxe. Rose and emerald hues are the main color palate with sumptuous textures and wood elements paying homage to cosmopolitan heydays. You’ve got all the luxe creature comforts: Grown Alchemist toiletries in the shower, plush robes in the wardrobe, and Bellino linens hand-crafted from Italy on the bed. Corner suites have expansive living rooms ripe for a quick lounge or afternoon drink—though with so many bars to belly up to, it’d be a shame to hide out. A Village Balcony King or Española Suite offer private balconies overlooking Española Way and plaza (just note it remains bustling into the wee hours).

Green tiled shower and yellow tiled bathroom
Courtesy Image

Corner suites like Louise Suite err on the peachier side of the spectrum with pink tile and ocean-themed prints adorning the walls; they boast French balconies, so you can get some fresh air even if you can’t perch on your own walk-out terrace. And if it’s space you need, a Village Deluxe King affords you more room to sprawl out.

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Matanza Rooms & Suites

Moodier and with more panache, Matanza Rooms and Suites have an eclectic combination of colors (chartreuse, merlot, and gold), textures (velvet), and prints (florals and leopard print). We recommend these rooms if you want to have a finger on the pulse of the nightlife—but have the opportunity to remove yourself from it all. The Matanza Suite, Balcony King, and Capone Suite are sublime options (upgrading to a suite is well worth the extra cash so you don’t feel confined). The same amenities apply; each room reinvents an era or locale, creating a playful, restful space for modern-day travelers just as Española Way created a safes pace for artists all those years ago.

Where to Eat

Tiled bar with tapas behind glass
Jen Castro

Bar Pintxo

Those paseos we mentioned before refer to the act of paseo, which loosely translates to “a leisurely usually evening stroll,” a Spanish tradition in which locals walk around after work, frequenting plazas for tapas or a drink before a late dinner. Bar Pintxo is like your favorite hole-in-the-wall bar for a beer and a bite. On offer is a rotating smorgasbord of Basque-style tapas like boquerones, tortilla Española, croquetas, anchovies, and more. No reservations are needed. Just pop in, pick a handful of foodstuffs then get a frosty beer on tap and sit outside. It’s the perfect outpost for an afternoon snack after shopping or sunbathing. If you’re lucky, there will be live music.

Bar with orange tiled floor
El Salón

El Salón

A martini is always a good idea, whether you’re starting or ending your night. At El Salón, mixologists have masterminded their own unique blend of spirits to bring you riffs on classic cocktails. All have been funneled into three categories: Traditional (highballs and 1:1 mixed drinks), Extraordinary (on the rocks or neat), and Versatile (strong or citrus-driven cocktails).

Try their takes on a traditional gibson, Manhattan, or vesper. Fancy something retro? Go for a Harvey Wallbanger (vodka, orange, yellow Italian herbal liqueur, and orange bitters), jungle bird (white rum, red Italian bitter, pineapple, and lime), or a hand-shaken piña colada (dark rum, versatile white rum, pineapple, and coconut).

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You’d be remiss to skip the Latin-influenced small plates. Nosh on charred lobster tostada, pulled pork arepa, and short rib empanadas. Need something a bit more substantial? Try the crispy Creole snapper with Haitian pickled vegetable relish and New Orleans-style remoulade. The space is dimly lit and intimate, so you’ll be dining among locals on dates as well as guests of the hotel.

Rooftop pool with pink and white striped lounge chairs and wood-plank wall
The Roof’s pool is available only to guests, so there’s ample room to sunbathe on loungers or soak in the pool. Jen Castro

The Roof

The Roof is the kind of space that makes you hard pressed to leave the property. While the hotel offers towels and chairs for the beach just a short walk away, there’s something about being pampered on vacation, sprawling on a daybed, getting up only to take a dip in the pool. You don’t even need to leave your perch; servers will bring your fare straight to you, even if you’re in the pool.

The Esmé Burger stacks Wagyu A5 beef, sambal “animal sauce,” fried and caramelized onions, smoked gouda, and bacon between a challah bun. From personal experience, we can tell you it pairs perfectly with a sunburn and a margarita. Come night, the space transforms into a buzzy nightclub of sorts. Dance under the stars or sip sangria on a sofa. The choice is yours, and there’s no wrong one.

Note: While Esmé Miami pool is only available to guests, there are only five larger daybeds set along the pool, so get there early. If one’s not free, don’t sweat; there’s a whole area of sofas between the pool and bar to camp out on. 

Bright arched bar with bottles on shelves
Courtesy Image

The Drexel

Mediterranean fare awaits at this breezy spot. It’s evocative of Europe’s main summer haunts and coastal towns. As such, the menu is heavy on the seafood and has a whole section dedicated to vegetable dishes, as well as a bevy of pastas and pizzas, and ones made entirely in The Drexel’s wood-fire oven and charcoal grill (think wild prawns, braised lamb shank, and roasted chicken with salsa verde).

Bright bar with hanging lanterns and stools
Courtesy Image

Tropezón

Keep the tapas comin’ at this Andalusian gin bar. Housemade gins infused with aromatics (e.g. Moroccan mint, blue matcha yuzu, and Egyptian lemongrass), fruits (e.g. sour cherry, nectarine, and backyard mango), nuts (Sri Lanka coconut or marcona almond), and even cured meat (bellota iberico or hojiblanca alive) are the main draw, but you can order any number of craft gins from the custom-tile bar. Go classic with a G&T or choose one of the spirits from the signature infusion program to reinvent your go-to libation.

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Dishes are meant to be shared and feature traditional Spanish standbys like patatas bravas, jamon iberico, and tortilla española. Don’t miss the Belgium endive salad and local fish bathed in an albarino-olive butter sauce with a side of Israeli couscous. Cap the meal with an espresso martini. It’s made with Tropezón’s housemade Madagascar vanilla gin and gets a dusting of chili powder for a touch of heat. It’s a brilliant hangout whether you’re able to squeeze in at the bar or nab a table.

Your first impression of Esmé remains a lasting one: This is not the typical Miami experience.

First time in Miami? Use our four-day weekend guide to build the perfect itinerary.

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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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