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Five Ten Hiangle Pro Climbing Shoes Will Help You Reach New Heights

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Five Ten's Hiangle Pro climbing shoe


With giant holds bolted to 45-degree walls, today’s gyms are a far cry from yesteryear, back when indoor rock climbing mimicked outdoor terrain. Gone are the gray rock-shaped holds, replaced with bright neon blobs, triangles, boxes, and various geometric shapes and sizes. Climbing shoemaker Five Ten’s solution to these indoor-specific holds is to design a shoe specifically made for ascending artificial terrain. They also want to drive maximum power out of it—especially on holds with smooth sides. That’s why its new Hiangle Pro lacks an inside edge; this way, it hugs giant shapes like a palm over a basketball rather than skimming and scraping off them.

Made with a seamless 3D forefoot wrap of sticky rubber that tapers from 3.5 to 2.1 millimeters underfoot, the soft inside of this shoe smears over holds. At the same time, the thin-rubber underfoot feels every nook and cranny. This increases balance and power on tiny edges and slopers.

“The lack of inside edge, coupled with a reinforced outer edge, is totally unique,” per Five Ten. “As indoor and competition climbing has become more dynamic and acrobatic, the way climbers use their feet has changed.”

Winner of three innovation awards for its unique shape, the Hiangle Pro is wrapped in sticky rubber called Stealth C4, from the heel to toe, with additional rubber over the forefoot and reinforced outer edge. This way, the shoe securely hooks, backsteps, and adheres to large volumes and other gym-specific terrain. They also have an aggressive talon-shape toe area to deliver precision and power from the ring-toe to big toe. The design helps them fit snugly and securely. There’s a single Velcro closure strap to secure feet inside the unlined synthetic suede uppers.

The Hiangle Pro excels in gyms on the steepest terrain, where extreme movement and fluidity are mastered. Here, individuals and groups work out the beta (sequence) and help their friends on the send (making it to the top).

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Reaching new heights at the Olympics

The 2020 Summer Olympics helped bring this language to those outside the climber’s world. It brought viewers to parkour-style routes, which means running and leaping over a series of holds to catch a distant grip, as well as compression style, in which athletes cling their arms and legs around the terrain like a starfish pulling in with all points at once. One of the most exciting moves seen in today’s gyms is the paddle dyno: You leap through the air with outstretched arms bouncing (paddling) from one hold to the next to secure an out of reach jug (big hold). This advanced movement is exactly the style of climbing the Hiangle Pro was designed for. (To learn about climbing terms, check out Matt Samet’s book The Climbing Dictionary: Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms & Lingo.)

Launched in Europe and Japan in time for the Summer 2020 Olympics, today the Hiangle Pro is available for U.S. customers looking to get the most out of their gym climbing, from recreational climbers to the best in the world competing for the top of the podium.

I found the shoes comfortable out of the box. Despite their radical design—which squeezes, wraps, and secures the foot in place while shaping it to a point at the forefoot—my forefoot and toes didn’t feel pinched, and the heel area felt secure and snug. There’s only one drawback: Because they fit like compression socks, removing them was energy-consuming, making me want to leave them on and keep climbing.

[$160, available at adidas.com]

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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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