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Hut to Hut Hiking Along Austria’s Eagle Way | Men’s Journal

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Hikers walking along via ferrata cliff on Austria's Eagle Way


With my left hand clenched on the via ferrata fixed line and my right hand cradling my camera, I looked over my shoulder to see how the other three were faring. Not far from reaching our first col of the day—a small saddle between two jagged peaks—the trail was steep and slick from overnight rain, and visibility was comparable to a bowl of soup.

Andy Cochrane

Jenny smiled back at me with her signature grin, bundled in all of her warm layers, plus a few of mine. Her brother, Chris, wasn’t far behind, taking a moment to frame up his own shot of the mist dancing around the ridgeline. This small cirque was stunning, making it hard to put our cameras down and keep walking forward. Annelie, the last in our party, had opted for a different route, and wasn’t far behind.

Hikers walking along the trail on Austria's Eagle Way
Andy Cochrane

The Eagle Way is Austria’s premier hiking trail, stretching 256 miles through the heart of the Alps. We were tackling just the section in East Tirol, the most mountainous and rugged province, over the course of a week. Each night we stayed at a small mountain-top refugio, enjoying a warm home-cooked meal and comfortable bed. This also allowed us to carry just a daypack’s worth of gear, and go farther each day. This route is the European version of the Appalachian Trail, but with a much deeper history and culture surrounding it. Soldiers used the Eagle Way in World War II to fortify positions, mountaineering pioneers used it to access historic climbs, and many hikers today consider it a must-do pilgrimage.

Many sections are steep and rugged, yet very well marked with red and white paint on rocks, and signposts at every junction. We often joked that you barely need a map because the route is quite easy to follow. It’s almost as if the Eagle Way is woven into the fabric of the mountains, almost as old as the rocks, glaciers, and streams that it meanders by. For those interested in following our footsteps, here are the basic logistics for making it happen.

Getting There: Planes & Trains

We opted to fly into Innsbruck, Austria, and take a two-hour shuttle to Tirol. This is the conventional and easiest way to do the southern Tirol section because it is the most remote. For most of the Eagle Way, Innsbruck is the best jumping off point, with many trailheads in the peaks just outside city limits. For the far western reaches, it’s a train ride from Zurich. Or for the eastern end of the trail you could fly into Munich and train to Austria to start your hike. Generally speaking, the best option is a roundtrip ticket to Innsbruck.

Hiker walking out of rustic accommodations in the mountains along Austria's Eagle Way.
Andy Cochrane

Gear & Food: The Hut-to-Hut Experience

We stayed at a different remote mountain hut each night, starting in the quaint hamlet of Ströden and making our way to the slightly larger town of Ködnitzhof—a total of 65 miles of hiking. Along the way, we stayed at Johannishütte the first night, nestled in a quaint alpine valley. The second night we stayed at Bonn Matreier Hütte, perched high with stunning 36-views, and were warmly welcomed by the family owners. The next night we stayed at Matreier Tauernhaus, in the small town of Tauer. The fourth night we stayed at Kalser Tauernhaus, another family-owned and incredibly welcoming abode. On the last day, we stayed at Gasthof Ködnitzhof.

Hiker sipping coffee at a rest stop along Austria's Eagle Way
Andy Cochrane

Each hut was slightly different, some with shared rooms and some with private ones, and each had their own homemade menu, history, and flavor. These safe havens allowed us to pack light, carrying just a daypack while still feeling safe and well-prepared. There were also huts mid-hike, giving us places to have a tasty lunch, a warm cup of coffee on a rainy day, or even a mid-afternoon beer if we liked. Some of our favorites included Essener Hütte, Sajathütte, Eissee Hütte, Badener Hut, and Stüdlhütte on our last day.

Hikers walking along the trail on Austria's Eagle Way.
Andy Cochrane

Other than the basics, like a smart first aid kit, water, headlamp, and sunscreen, I had a few items that really made the trip comfortable. I wore a new pair of HOKA Mafate Speed 4s which proved to be the perfect footwear, drying quickly after wet days, giving me great grip on loose terrain, and being comfortable for long, eight-plus hours hiking each day. I wore an Arcteryx Beta LT Rain Jacket, which proved bomber in a few downpours, and a Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer Hoody for an extremely lightweight, warm layer. I loved the Julbo Meta sunglasses for style and function, and tracked the entire route on the Garmin Enduro 2, which I consider the best GPS watch on the market. All of this was thrown into a Patagonia Slope Runner Expedition pack prototype that has since launched and is worth the hype.

Hikers walking along a trail on Austria's Eagle Way.
Andy Cochrane

Weather & Why You Should Go

Like most mountains around the world, weather in the Austrian Alps is fickle and changes quickly. The best time to visit is June through September, but you’re never guaranteed a warm, sunny week. Even in mid-summer it can storm for days on end. That said, the huts offer a great place to dry out and warm up, so even if you’ve been hiking in the worst of it, the trip will still feel comfortable and safe.

Hiker standing beside the trail on Austria's Eagle Way.
Andy Cochrane

The biggest draw wasn’t the vastness of the place or the beauty of the peaks that surround the trail (both of which are impressive in their own right), but instead the people we met along the way. For an entire week, we didn’t see another American. The trail was relatively empty and the folks we did meet along the way or in huts were almost exclusively Germans and Austrians, taking a holiday or a long weekend hike. This made us feel like we were locals, not just visiting for a week.

Further, every single hut we stepped into was warm and inviting, even as we struggled our way through ordering drinks and food using the few German words we knew. Most of them are run by a family, and you can see the parents and kids all helping out in the kitchen and with chores all around the property. It’s an experience unlike anything you can get in the U.S., making the entire trip a whole lot richer.

 


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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