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If You Liked ‘Free Solo,’ Here’s Another Climbing Doc to Make Your Palms Sweat: ‘The Alpinist’  

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Climber Marc-André Leclerc


The Alpinist, out September 10, captures some of the most awe-inspiring free solo climbing footage ever seen on rock and ice. Filmmakers Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen of Sender Films, core climbers who’ve documented the sport for 20 years, tell the story of Marc-André Leclerc, regarded as the best alpinist in history.

After getting a tip that the young climber had been hitchhiking his way across the Trans-Canada Highway and ticking off impressive ropeless ascents of demanding ice routes, Mortimer and Rosin, producers of Valley Uprising (2014) and The Dawn Wall (2017), find Leclerc living in a tent in the forest in Squamish, B.C. with his girlfriend and professional alpinist Brette Harrington. They follow him for two years to understand the young climber’s drive.

Along the way, they capture Leclerc free soloing vertical rock in Squamish, known as the Yosemite Valley of Canada. Here, he flows up the stone with such grace and intuitiveness that it’s like watching a ballet dancer execute a perfect routine—only he’s ropeless and risking death at every step. In one scene, he climbs overhanging rock and ice barehanded, frequently pausing to gently dust holds with one finger before placing a single crampon point onto an invisible edge.

In another section, Leclerc ascends a swath of seemingly blank limestone to reach an overhanging block of ice. Near the top, he cuts his feet free from the stone and dangles, effortlessly from one arm, leaving the filmmakers dumbfounded and mumbling, “Holy shit, dude.” Leclerc awkwardly shrugs off the experience and explains it’s just another day in the mountains. “A memorable one,” he says before injecting a half-smile.

The film also shows his footloose and fancy-free side, including hula-hooping with his close friend Hevy Duty, an older British expatriate who often has multi-colored hair and lives by the mantra: “climb, eat, dance, repeat.”

Scott Serfas

Otherworldly is one way to describe Leclerc’s personality. He began taking hallucinogens as a teen, preferring to take higher doses than his peers and disappearing for days on end. He’s a bit awkward and often stares off at nothing in particular.

Deeply driven and incredibly athletic, it’s clear Leclerc was free of the confines of this world. Whether it was his past visual experiences or real-life enriching ones in the mountains, he’s on his own path. And part of what makes this film work is that he could care less about the movie and being its central figure.

Mortimer and Rosen gifted him a cell phone so they could contact the nascent wanderer, which he naturally lost in the wild before disappearing. The absence drives the filmmakers crazy, especially after Leclerc climbed Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies, considered one of the most difficult alpine solo ascents ever completed, and left them out of it. When they ask him why he didn’t tell them his plans, he returned plainly, “It wouldn’t be a solo if you were there.” Luckily for viewers, he agrees to return to the climb with cameras rolling, and the filmmakers capture scenes of ropeless climbing at the highest caliber on one of the most recognizable and intimidating peaks in North America.

After Robson, the film builds up to Leclerc’s winter, solo ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia, a complex tower in the range known for having the world’s worst weather.

Climber Marc-André Leclerc
Marc-André Leclerc

Here he’s accompanied by film editor and friend Austin Siadak, who follows Leclerc through deep snow, over thin ice runnels, and across exposed granite where crampons squeak and scratch underfoot. At halfway, Leclerc continues alone, making it within a few hundred feet of the summit before bivying on a snow ledge. That night, recording himself from his tent, he tells Harrington that he loves her before putting the camera away. Soon a storm erupts over the range that drives Leclerc down, where he rappels through the torrent and returns to camp battered but intact. Instead of turning tail, when the storm clears, he goes back up.

Leclerc was born in 1992 in Nanaimo, British Columbia, and disappeared in March 2018 while descending the Mendenhall Towers in Alaska. During his brief 26 years on Earth, he tallied up a resume of climbs that skyrocketed him to the top of his field, including solo ascents of Cerro Torre and Torre Egger in Patagonia, Mount Slesse in B.C’s Cascade Mountains, and the Emperor Face on Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.

The Alpinist is produced by Red Bull Media House in association with Sender Films. The film will be released by Universal Pictures Home Entertainment and Roadside Attractions on Sept. 10. 

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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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