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Last-Minute Travel Guide to Reykjavík, Iceland

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The Fagradalsfjall volcano


When the Fagradalsfjall volcano suddenly erupted earlier this year in Iceland, locals and tourists alike descended on the mountain to party like it was 1999. Or 1239. Anyway, which was the last time there’d been any volcanic activity out on the Reykjanes Peninsula (about an hour’s drive south of Reykjavík). Hot dog vendors set up shop as the lava continued to flow for months. There were even reports of faraway bars live-streaming the whole thing. The magma has since cooled, but the volcano is still a hit. Park the car, walk on the black rocks, and pretend you’re on the moon. That’s the thing about Iceland: It’s alive and always changing.

Call Iceland the Greater Outdoors, a frozen playground of epic road trips and midnight summertime hikes where, after a long day out in the wild, you’ll be rewarded with a Michelin-starred meal and a geothermal bath to soak away the pain. And with flights still way under capacity these days, Reykjavík is the perfect last-minute escape. Here’s how to get Björked.

Last-Minute Travel Guide to Reykjavík, Iceland


The Fagradalsfjall volcano erupted in March of 2021 for the first time in about 800 years.
Hjördís Jónsdóttir

The first stop

Any co-worker who’s been to Iceland will give you the same hack: Go right from the airport to the Blue Lagoon, until your hotel room is ready. Which is (one reason) why the Blue Lagoon is teeming with tourists. Skip the crowds and head to Reykjavík’s newly opened Sky Lagoon, an infinity pool on the Atlantic ocean with a glass-walled sauna overlooking an active volcano. Sure, the whole thing looks like something out of The Bachelor, but the thermal waters are piping hot and the beer is ice cold. Plus, it’s open until 10 p.m. If the sky is clear, you can float beneath the Northern Lights.

The Sky Lagoon opened in the spring of 2021

The Sky Lagoon opened in the spring of 2021; among the surprises, the glass-walled sauna has views of the Icelandic president’s house.
Sky Lagoon by Pursuit

The day trip

If you’re short on time, plug the Golden Circle into your rental’s GPS and check off three bucket list spots in one day: Geysir hot spring area (the largest in Europe), Gullfoss waterfall (which means “golden waterfall,” largely due to the fact that rainbows form in the spray above the falls on sunny days), and Dingvellir National Park, where the Vikings apparently had their parliament. The best part? You can still make it back to Reykjavík for a late-night drink at Kaldi, a local bar with an impressive collection of gin.

The road trip

This seven-day drive is called The Ring Road for obvious reasons: one historic “highway” that encircles the perimeter of the island. You’ll stop at Skógafoss waterfall, Langjökull Glacier (home to the world’s largest man-made ice tunnel), and Kirkjufell (a mountain shaped like an arrowhead). But you’ll also have time for more unlikely spots like the volcanic deserts of Húsavík on the northern coast, where NASA once sent U.S. astronauts to train in the 60s.

Hafnarfjörður

Just six miles from Reykjavík one can hike the outdoors of Hafnarfjörður, with views of Hamarinn Cliff. The area is also said to be home to the elves who live in the Hellisgerði Lava Garden.
Hjördís Jónsdóttir

After hours

Gunnar Karl Gíslason, founding chef of Dill restaurant, made his name by embracing local ingredients and homespun techniques with a modern twist. For example, taking dried cod, shredding it in a blender and mixing it with burned butter and white ale vinegar. The choice to go hyperlocal was intentional, but also necessary: The restaurant opened in the wake of a financial crisis that crippled Iceland and he couldn’t afford to import much. The bet paid off. Dill was hailed as a temple of New Nordic Cuisine, earning the country’s first Michelin star in 2017—only to have it taken away two years later. What’s Icelandic for ruh-roh?

Chef Gíslason (who’d briefly decamped to New York to open Agern) returned to Reykjavík like a man possessed, promptly buying out some of his early investors and moving Dill to a new location on the city’s main drag. He put his focus on a tasting menu strong on Nordic vegetables, sustainability and (lately) wild geese. The restaurant regained its Michelin star in 2020. Naturally, chef is now gunning for a second.

Late-night outings

If you want to know where to eat after hours, ask a chef. Dill’s frontman recommends the hip No Concept, where he reports the kitchen is open late and the pizza (of all things) is killer. He washes it down with a gin martini—light on the vermouth, with a twist of lemon. But you can ask for dealer’s choice.

Where to sleep

The Reyjkavik outpost of the EDITION opened this fall, and while the design is predictably sleek, the views are the main draw. The hotel sits on the waterfront staring out at Mt. Esja, the Snæfellsjökull glacier, and the Olafur Eliasson-designed, glass-walled Harpa Concert Hall (where Björk sometimes hangs out at the café). Don’t fight the jet lag. If you’re up early, grab a coffee at Reykjavík Roasters and walk to Brauð & Co. for the still-hot cinnamon buns (a hangover from Iceland’s Danish history).

The Harpa Concert Hall, designed by Olafur Eliasson

The Harpa Concert Hall, designed by Olafur Eliasson, recently saw Bjork performing live with members of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra
Courtesy Harpa

How to stay warm

The Icelandic heritage brand 66°North was created in 1926 to protect local fishermen from the extreme elements. Like other high-end outerwear suppliers, the company uses Gore-Tex and Polartec fabrics (among others) to keep you toasty. But the construction is what makes 66°North worth talking about. The Jökla Parka costs a steeper-than-Everest $1,200. But the design has input from some of Iceland’s real search-and-rescue teams. You won’t feel like the Stay Puft Marshmallow Man when you put it on.

66°North coats on display

The Icelandic brand 66°North is popular with local film crews; Will Smith and Jake Gyllenhaal have also been spotted wearing the brand’s parkas in the wild.
Hjördís Jónsdóttir for 66°North

What to watch on the airplane

The Icelandic series Katla premiered on Netflix in the summer of 2021 and, despite the near-permanent sunshine, everyone was locked inside bingeing this creepy mystery. Katla plays like an Icelandic Lost; a year after a catastrophic volcanic eruption, a long-lost woman emerges from the ash looking exactly as she did 20 years ago. And she’s not alone. Spooky. Pro tip: Download the entire eight-episode series before takeoff and you’ll finish just as you pull into the gate.


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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