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Meet the All-Black Climbing Expedition Working to Make History on Everest

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Ice climbing using double ladders on Everest


Of the 10,271 people who’ve triumphantly set crampons atop the highest point on Earth, fewer than 10 are Black. Next spring, 10 climbers plan to change that: A group of of alpinists from across the U.S. and Kenya have teamed up to become the first Black mountaineering expedition to reach the summit of Mt. Everest since the 29,032-foot Himalayan giant was first scaled in 1953.

“Because it’s Everest, it’s an iconic mountain to climb for anyone who’s into mountaineering,” says Philip Henderson, leader of the seminal Full Circle 2022 Expedition. “The other part of it—we could climb other mountains in the Himalaya—it’s a test. It’s a piece of experience in someone’s mountaineering career. It’s about the Sherpa people and working with them. It’s sharing that connection with other American climbers who haven’t been to the Himalaya.”

For the Everest climb, Henderson (58) from California, now living in Colorado, will be accompanied by Abby Dione (FL), Manoah Ainu (MT), Eddie Tayler (CO), Thomas Moore (CO), Fred Campbell (WA) Demon (Dom) Mullens (NY), Rosemary Saal (WA), and James Kagambi (Kenya). Their 70-day trip starting in March 2022 will follow the mountain’s standard route (the southwest ridge), where they’ll advance from basecamp at 17,598 feet and ascend 11,434 vertical feet to reach the summit, using bottled oxygen from Camp 3 and above.


Full Circle 2022 Expedition Leader Philip Henderson negotiates the Khumbu Icefall during an earlier bid on Mount Everest.
Courtesy Image

In 2012, Henderson attempted Everest and reached Camp 3 only to get turned back due to bronchitis. If successful, this upcoming trip will see him reach the summit and, for the first time, be accompanied by other Black and Brown climbers.

“I enjoy every step I take in the mountains,” says Henderson. “Wherever it takes me, it takes me. I’ve been to East Africa (Kenya and Tanzania), Nepal, and Chile. It’ll be 30 years next summer that I’ve worked in the outdoors.”

Henderson may never have chosen his adventure path if it hadn’t been for a football accident that left him temporarily paralyzed during his early 20s. For three long minutes he couldn’t feel anything below his neck, long enough he feared he’d never walk again. At first, merely making it out his front door was all he could muster. Then he branched out farther—first up nearby hillsides, then peaks.

Black climber trekking Everest

Heading up. Henderson on Alaska’s Mount Denali.
Courtesy Image

Henderson hatched the idea of returning to Everest during the annual Ouray Ice Festival in Colorado, where he was teaching a clinic. “I ran into Fred Campbell and someone started talking about Everest, then Manoah Ainu came around the corner. There were three of us. I’d never climbed with three Black people before, especially in the backcountry.”

The trip grew from there, morphing into the Full Circle 2022 Expedition with the aim of “permanently changing the future of mountaineering on a global scale,” according to their GoFundMe. It will “showcase the tenacity and strength of these climbers and highlight the barriers that continue to exist for underrepresented communities in accessing the outdoors.”

According to the American Alpine Club, only one percent of climbers are Black. That’s the same annual percentage of visitors to Yosemite National Park who are Black, says Shelton Johnson, one of three Black rangers (ever) in the Park.

“It feels segregated because there’s a legacy of segregation in our country,” says Johnson. “When someone asks me why people of color don’t visit national parks, you have to remember something. We come out of a history of exclusion, rather than inclusion, segregation rather than integration.”

In May 2022, Henderson and the Full Circle Expedition’s Everest bid will mark a significant step in the other direction and a new chapter in the fabled mountain’s history.


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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