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Northern Portgual Travel Guide: Porto and the Douro Valley

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Portugal's historic riverside town of Port


Perhaps you haven’t yet heard—port is booming. Future Market Insights reports that the global port wine market is primed for a giant compound annual growth rate of 8.1 percent in the next decade. For travelers to Europe’s hottest new (but old) destination, that means the famous fortified wine’s eponymous region of Porto and the Douro Valley in Northern Portugal will be greeting even more international visitors heading to the terracotta stacked city for, among other things, a savory taste of the world’s finest ports straight from the source.

According to Adrian Bridge, CEO of the Fladgate Partnership—known for their port brands, including Taylor’s, Fonseca, Croft, and Krohn—this shift picked up during the pandemic. “More entertaining at home meant more dinner parties and fortified wines at dessert,” explains Bridge. “As things came back, the at-home market continued.” Bridge credits port’s symbol as an aspirational drink and the lifestyle it represents to the increasing interest of the fine wine. This further opened doors to its native destination, luring those same curious customers to explore port in depth, from its terroir to its history, and complex culture. But as much as a trip to Porto includes indulging in port, there’s plenty more to see and do in between sips.

Start in Porto: About 175 miles north of Portugal’s capital of Lisbon, this port town is the second largest city in the country and one of the oldest cities in Europe. The Douro River that flows through it—winding down from the Upper Douro Valley, which used to transport port barrels to the urban warehouses—is the centerpiece dividing the populated right bank of Porto from the opposite Vila Nova De Gaia, which historically hosted the majority of port wine cellars. Today, the left bank is brimming with a contemporary flair to make it worth exploring, and even staying on.


Porto on the Douro River
ESB Professional / Shutterstock

Vila Nova De Gaia’s transformation—and arguably Porto’s mark on the map—was recognized by the opening of The Yeatman Hotel in 2011. The wine hotel emphasizes the destination by positioning all of its 82 rooms toward the river, outfitting them with balconies and terraces to overlook the UNESCO World Heritage city across the way (Porto). Every room is sponsored by a local winery, decorated with branded trinkets, antique bottles, and informative coffee table books to start absorbing the rich history here from the first moment you check in.

The latest addition to the left bank is the World of Wine, or WOW, a 500,000-square-foot cultural district boasting seven interactive museums, 12 restaurants, plenty of shops, and even a wine education center. Although it opened during the midst of the pandemic, the phased opening has thus far proven a success to intrigue visitors to linger in town a little longer. Bridge explained this was a key driver in creating WOW.

“It’s always been about the destination—a catalyst for change and city-wide regeneration,” says Bridge, the brains behind both WOW and The Yeatman Hotel. “It’s about people learning to love wine, not just port, as well as tapping into the history of Porto and why humankind ever came to live in Porto.”

Table with view a wonderful view over the river in Porto, Portugal
Diana Rui / Shutterstock

You could spend an entire day at WOW, browsing the 2,000 artifacts in the Bridge Collection of drinking vessels, with the oldest receptacle dating back 9,000 years, or learning about cork at the dedicated exhibit. Fifty percent of the world’s cork is grown in Portugal and 70 percent is processed through the country—so build time into your itinerary accordingly. Another day, or multiple days, in Porto could be spent winding the medieval streets, visiting the Porto Cathedral from the 12th century, sipping vinho verde (a regional style effervescent white wine that literally translates to green wine) on the shores of the Douro, and indulging in freshly caught seafood (no end to octopus, cod, and sea bass).

There’s also pintxos, Porto’s version of Basque small plates, including smoked ham and sausages, clams, cod cakes, gizzards, and octopus salad—and pintxos bars are the place to eat them. Try: Sagardi Porto or The Wine Box and keep an eye out for unassuming bars placing chalkboards advertising pintxos outside their doors before dinner. For larger meals, order up bacalhau (codfish) at T&C Restaurant (pro tip: ask to sit in a repurposed port cask), sizzling meats at Brasão (they also do an elevated version of Francesinha, a stack of meat and cheese that originated as a hangover cure) or splurge on a tasting menu at Tábua Rasa, specializing in 100 percent Portuguese cuisine from their cured meat boards to earth-and-sea tastings that feature canned fish boards.

Vineyards in Douro Valley, Portugal, Portuguese port wine

Vineyards in the Douro Valley
silky / Shutterstock

Once you’ve established your bearings here, you’re ready to make your way to the countryside. Driving into the beloved Douro Valley is like entering a sweeping puzzle of branded hills of grape vines and olive trees. A landscape that’s truly hard to capture, it’s better to snap a video to remember it than put the technology away and surrender to the vastness of your natural environs.

It’s here where tastings take over. Despite tour operators advertising afternoon trips, the oldest demarcated region in the world is worthy of a multi-day stay. Check into The Vintage House, a former 19th-century winery converted into a 47-room hugging the banks of Douro River, and strap on your sneakers to walk to (or cycle to) a handful of star wineries surrounding this part of the valley, Pinhão. There’s Croft’s Quinta da Roêda, where you can walk among 100-year old vines and partake in traditional foot treading of the grapes during harvest. Quinta de Bomfim is the Symington family-owned vineyard, which produces grapes for DOW’s, one of their four famed port brands. Quinta do Portal doubles as a lunch and dinner spot where you can also try their table wines with rotating seasonal dishes.

Outdoor table with selection of three different port wines in glasses.
barmalini / Shutterstock

Further afield, requiring a car or a scenic train ride are Fonseca’s Quinta do Panascal, one of the first tasting rooms to open to the public (be a pro and ask for a siroco on the rocks, their white port with a twist of orange). Quinta das Carvalhas is a stunning stop to witness their vines located at various altitudes (in the morning, the misty clouds hover over the highest planted vines). And, Quinta Nova Nossa Senhora do Carmo is both a quick stop for a port and table wine tasting, as well as an overnight destination, with their onsite Relais & Châteaux hotel.

No matter where you stay in the Douro, one thing is for certain. Nothing is rushed here. You’ll need to take your time to experience all this region has to offer. Starting in Porto provides you with that platform to understand port at a deeper level. As you follow your journey into the valley, don’t forget to look up once night falls. Plopped into the center of Portugal’s Dark Sky route, the twinkling projection reminds you to slow down and reflect on your time here. If you’re lucky to catch a shooting star, wish upon it that one day you’ll be back.


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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