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The Best New Pro-Level Climbing Gear to Help You Send It

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Edelrid Neo 3R 9.8 mm rope, green, coiled, in packaging


During the last week of September, it’s like a light switch turns on in Yosemite. The once-dormant granite walls in and around the rock climbing mecca are suddenly echoing with happy voices donning new climbing gear: carabiners, belay devices, and helmets—all glimmering in the Sierra Nevada sunlight. What’s behind the rush? Lower daytime temperatures comfortable enough to throw on a top without overheating; conditions that increase friction between hands, sticky climbing shoes and rock; beautiful changing foliage; crisp evenings. In short, it’s autumn, the ideal season for climbers—and for testing out new apparel and equipment.

With summer’s scorching days behind us, it’s time to reemerge from the gym and get outside. Here’s the best new and upcoming climbing gear.


Edelrid Neo 3R 9.8mm Rope
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1. Edelrid Neo 3R 9.8 mm

Made with leftover yarns and braids from the production process and thus saving resources, Edelrid’s 50 percent recycled rope—the Neo 3R 9.8mm—is the first of its kind to hit the market. UIAA certified and built with a sheath that’s soft and supple in the hands and with a strong core that stretches 37 percent to gently catch falls, the 63 gram per meter Neo 3R operates like a modern rope should.

Like all Edelrid ropes, it’s bluesign certified—constructed with 63 percent fewer chemicals and energy consumption, 89 percent less water, and 62 percent less carbon dioxide. Available in 50-, 60-, 70-, and 80-meter lengths.

[Prices vary; search local distributor]

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Rab One80 long sleeve midweight climbing hoody, oxblood red

Rab One80 Collection. Coming soon.
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2. Rab One80 Collection

Rab’s upcoming One80 collection (out March 1, 2022) blends comfort, performance, durability, and style with a line of activewear made from recycled materials and fluorocarbon-free DWR. Built in collaboration with their climbing team, the new Rab line includes hoodies, tops, sport tops and pants for men and women.

Made of 92 percent recycled polyester and 8 percent elastane, all items in the One80 collection offer four-way stretch for optimal movement on rock. This material can withstand being ground into the stone without breaking down while providing lasting comfort. Midweight Radian and Dihedral hoodies feature articulated sleeves and elastic binding at the cuffs that are an all-around perfect fit for fall conditions. The pant line includes everything from flexile tights to stretch cotton canvas—all made to move with you. The whole line looks equally in place at the cliffs and breweries.

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Pair of adidas Five Ten NIAD Moccasym climbing shoes

Reintroducing the new and improved Five Ten NIAD Moccasym
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3. Five Ten NIAD Moccasym Climbing Shoes

After three decades on the market, the new and improved (and renamed) NIAD Moccasym—a.k.a. “Moc”—is stickier than ever. The softest and most flexible shoe in the updated NIAD line (NIAD = Nose in a Day, referring to the popular Nose route on El Capitan in Yosemite; “in a day” means climbing the route in under 24 hours), the bright red Moc is constructed with unlined leather uppers and an elastic closure system with three-quarters of the shoe wrapped in sticky rubber.

Made for climbers of all levels, these bedroom-slipper comfortable climbing shoes are equally precise in the gym, on less than vertical face routes, and thuggy overhanging lines alike—though not as optimal for vertical edging. All those points are why Chris Sharma used these shoes on his first ascent of (5.14d) Dreamcatcher in Squamish, B.C. over 15 years ago.

Today’s Mocs have an updated heel and an added strip of rubber extending from the inside toe area to the top of the foot, which provides added friction for toe hooking and hand-sized cracks. As the mid-90s adage goes, these slippers feel like Ferraris for your feet.

[$125; adidas.com]

GET IT

 


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10 Best Porters to Drink Right Now

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A bottle of Deschutes Black Butte Porter




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Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

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Barbell Back Squat


The key to 360-degree muscle: 90-degree eccentric isometrics. It might seem like we’re throwing a lot of geometry at you, but the concept behind time under tension (TUT) is simple, says Joel Seedman, PhD, owner of Advanced Human Performance: “Perform the lowering phase of a movement in a slow, controlled fashion, usually 3 to 5 seconds; pause in the stretched position, typically around 90 degrees; then perform the lifting phase in a powerful yet controlled fashion.” Believe us, a time-under-tension workout can humble even seasoned lifters…Eccentric isometrics are like the pressure cooker of training.

“Rather than mindlessly performing slow-tempo reps, you’re using the increased time under tension as a means to fine-tune your body mechanics and alignment, which requires more mental engagement and focus,” Seedman adds.

If you want to forge functional muscle mass and strength while simultaneously bulletproofing the joints and connective tissue, give this 10-move, full-body eccentric isometrics workout a go.

Directions

Perform the following moves as 90-degree eccentric isometrics following the above protocol. Use heavy weight, but not at the detriment of proper form. Rest 60 to 90 seconds between sets and 2 minutes between circuits. Perform once every 2 to 4 days for optimal results.

Best Time-Under-Tension Workout for Total-Body Strength

Circuit 1

Marius Bugge

A. Barbell Back Squat

Set a squat rack up with heavy weight, then grasp bar and step under it. Squeeze shoulder blades together, then stand to unrack bar and step back with feet shoulder-width apart. Inhale, hinge at hips and slowly bend knees to 90 degrees. Pause, keeping natural arch in low back, then extend through hips to powerfully stand. 3 x 4-6 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts renegade row
Marius Bugge

B. Renegade Row

Start in the top position of a pushup with hands shoulder-width apart on moderate-to-heavy dumbbells (shown). Explosively drive right elbow back to row dumbbell toward ribs while balancing on opposite hand and feet. Pause, then slowly lower weight, stopping a few inches above floor. Switch sides after all reps are done. 3 x 5 reps each side

Circuit 2

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing renegade row Dumbbell Bentover Row in gym
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bentover Row

Stand with feet hip-width apart, holding two moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in front of thighs, palms facing you. Push hips back and hinge torso forward so it’s nearly parallel to floor, soft bend in knees. Dumbbells should be near shins. Drive elbows back to row weights toward ribs. Pause, then slowly lower down for 3 to 5 seconds. 3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 
Marius Bugge

B. Incline Dumbbell Chest Press with Legs Raised 

Set an adjustable bench to a 30- to 45-degree angle and lie back with dumbbells in either hand. Engage core and lift legs off floor, flexing feet. Press weights overhead, palms in. Slowly lower to 90 degrees, staying tight and compact. Pause, then drive weights up directly over chest. 3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 3

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat
Marius Bugge

A. Dumbbell Bulgarian Squat

Stand lunge-length in front of a flat bench, holding heavy dumbbells in each hand by your sides, palms facing in. Rest the ball on top (shoe’s laces) of your right foot behind you on the bench. Slowly lower your body until your front thigh is parallel to the floor. Pause, then drive through your heel to stand. Switch sides after all reps are complete. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Single-leg Romanian Deadlift
Marius Bugge

B. Single-leg Romanian Deadlift

Stand with feet hip-width apart holding dumbbells or kettlebells. Drive right leg up, foot flexed, knee aligned with hip, making a 90-degree angle. Hinge at hips as you slowly lever your torso toward floor, lowering weights and driving right leg back for counterbalance. Hold, then squeeze glutes to reverse. 2 x 3-4 reps each side

Circuit 4

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing pullup
Marius Bugge

A. Pullup

Hang from a pullup bar using an overhand grip with legs extended and feet flexed. Engage lats and draw shoulders down your back, then pull yourself up until chin is higher than hands. Pause at the top, then slowly lower. Pause at bottom, then reset before your next rep. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Athletic man wearing gray T-shirt and maroon shorts doing Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press
Marius Bugge

B. Kneeling Overhead Barbell Press

Hold a bar with moderate-to-heavy load at shoulder level with forearms perpendicular to floor. Kneel at end of bench with feet flexed to grip edge for support. Inhale, engage your core and glutes, then press the bar overhead, pushing your head forward so it passes your face, exhaling at the top.
Slowly lower until elbows are at 90 degrees, then hold to maintain tension. Begin your next rep from here. 2-3 x 4-5 reps

Circuit 5

A. Dumbbell Pushup

Place hands on dumbbells (this provides greater range of motion) at shoulder width and feet wider than shoulder width with just toes touching the ground. Keep head neutral and hips high to increase tension on core, chest and tris and reduce stress on spine. Slowly lower to the floor. Stop
once elbows hit 90 degrees, pause, then push up to start. 1-2 x 6-8 reps

B. Biceps Curl

Stand with feet hip-width apart with moderate-to-heavy dumbbells in each hand hanging by sides. Engage biceps to curl the weights up, keeping upper arms still. Pause at the top, then lower slowly. Don’t let arms drop all the way down to keep greater time under tension on biceps. 1-2 x 6-8 reps


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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout

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The Best Jump Ropes for a Killer Cardio Workout




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